Monday, 28 July 2014

Day 16...to Kurland

We had to leave our house at Wilderness today and drive to Kurland. We stopped at the farmers market at Sedgefield for breakfast then drove on to Knysna. We stopped at the Heads in Knysna which overlook the harbour entrance.  The lookout points are some of the most terrifying in the universe as they don't appear to be fixed to the ground. However the views are spectacular. We then drove to Coney Glen beach and got as close to the crashing waves as we could through the rocks.
Kurland Hotel just past Plettenberg Bay is an old colonial estate and features rooms from converted colonial houses. The place is incredible. The children have the loft of our house while we are downstairs. There are log fires in our room and also inside and out of the main house. There is a polo pitch and fields of horses. I went for a quick run around the estate and then we had dinner in the library. Just us. In an old library. With a log fire. It was like being in an Jane Austen novel...

Day 14... More photos

Beach after lunch

Day 15...whales, zebras and packing

Morning lung-busting run. Weather was more cloudy and breezy and, as it was our last day in Wilderness, Gillie and I went for a walk around the park by our house. Saw whales swimming past then zebra and ostriches at the top of the cliff. Then, on the way back home, we saw whales breaching - awesome sight. After doing some packing and trying to get warm, we popped out for some shopping and then went for another walk on the fantastic Wilderness beach. Dinner in The Girls restaurant where Ben extended his range if fish eaten with a fillet of Dorado. Freezing night...a cold front has come over apparently.

Day 14...horse riding

Went to Black Forest Trails horse riding in morning. Hannah and Ben went off on a hack through the forest while Gillie and I went for a more sedate stroll. Children had a great time riding so we thought we would punish them by taking them for another walk.... this time to see a big tree called Big Tree.  They were right... It was big. And we then made use of the restaurant voucher from the stables as they also owned the Zucchini restaurant at Timberlake. Another phenomenal meal...springbok meatballs, gembok burger...more cheesecake..Afterwards all we could do was flop down on the beach and paddle in the surf. We will be the size of houses by the time this holiday ends at this rate.

Sunday, 27 July 2014

Day 13... Acrobranch!

After a morning 5k run up a cliff, we took children back to Timberlake so they could do the Acrobranch ropes course. They loved it but I'm not sure I could have done it...far too high up. We then went to the surfing paradise of Victoria Bay where we sat on the harbour wall and watched the waves come in. After making sandcastles and Ben inevitably getting soaked, we went for an early tea at Salinas beach restaurant. Yet to have a bad meal in this country! More cheesecake! Drove up the ridiculously winding track in the dark.

Day 12...Goukamma

Went for Goukamma National Park where we did another beautiful walk round Buffles Bay. Yet another river pontoon crossing! Saw whales in the distance and then walked back along the beach. Ben talked us through his numerous survival strategies for every conceivable emergency situation which kept us all entertained. The parks are desrted as it is out of season but the weather is gorgeous . Sunny and abiut 19 degrees. It was a long and tiring walk and after dinner we played Rummy as has become a tradition as we don't have tv or internet. Not sure how long we can last.

Day 11... Canoeing

Off to Timberlake Park as the kids wanted to do a high ropes challenge course there. Unfortunately the rope thing was closed so we had breakfast and decided to go to Wilderness Park and go canoeing up the Towou river. It was fantastic going up the same river we had walked up the other day. We saw a kingfisher and numerous other birds. Had lunch then went back to mall to restock on supplies. Children certainly gettimg their quota of fresh air.

Day 10...zebras.!

Gillie and I went for a morning walk allowing kids time to recuperate. We went to clifftop and were amazed to see ostriches, antelope and zebra all grazing together. After trying to get as close as possible in my bright blue rain jacket (which may not be the best apparel for wild animal stalking) we decided the kids had to see it so we dragged them out too. We stalked the animals with Ben doing an excellent job telling us when to crouch and duck down. Eventually Gillie started worrying about an ostrich attack so we had to return home.via a walk through the Magic Wood and back round the headland. Its a beautiful isolated location and it's good to relax and gaze over the ocean.

Day 9...Farmers Market

Gillie saw whales this morning from the decking and we all managed to glimpse them in the distance. Need more powerful binoculars! We went to Sedgefield Farmers Market where we bought breakfast, meringues, oysters (for Ben to try...not keen) and some jam and honey. We then went to Wilderness National Park to do a walk up to a waterfall. Wonderful walk and the kids loved the pontoon crossing of the river. Back home to whale watch after going for an exhausting uphill run.

Day 8...Whale Trail

We went out for a walk to ecplore our new home. Took the Whale Trail round the headland then a very steep track down to Balots Bay. Incredible scenery with just a few log cabins in the park. Played on the beach then did the long ascent back up to our house. We then had to return to the mall to get some more food as we realised that we were going to staying in to eat as the road was so tricky. After stocking up, we drove home and cooked some pork steaks washed down with a bottle of local wine. While it was cooking, I sat on the deck scouring the sea for whales. No joy.

Day 7 Wilderness

After a wonderful breakfast and some beetroot juice, we had a long drive to George and the Wilderness National Park. We made a quick stop at the Rietvallei winery to buy some more local wine. The journey was long but scenic and soon we were in George and stocking up on food as our new house was quite isolated. Indeed the drive to the house was hair-raising with steep ascents and descents with hairpin bends. Hannah couldn't bear it and hyperventilated in the back. We were amazed by the house. In the middle of nowhere, right on the cliffs and overlooking the fynbos and sea. Every room has amazing views. No internet, tv or mobile. The wind howled and the rain set in as we went to bed.

Wednesday, 23 July 2014

Day 6

On my morning run, I met another runner who turned out to be a teacher from Manchester Grammar who was in Cape Town on a rugby tour with some students.It was fun to have a running buddy for ine of my laps. Then we had to pack and drive out of Cape Town, across the mountains, through some more mountains and into the wine valley country! Superb scenery and riads with most polite driving I have ever witnessed. The wineries were great...we stopped at Balance at Overhex first, taking them all by surprise so the accountant had to let us taste. Then onto to the plush tasting room at Graham Beck making sure we bought samples from each. We then stopped at an olive estate for a delightful lunch outside and enjoyed some olive and olive oil tasting! Having bought some olives, we went on to the town of Robertson where we were staying the night at the Small Hotel:-) Superb rooms with private patios onto the freezing pool. The children tried a dip and Ben managed to get across the 2 metre width if the pool. Hannah managed up to her waist and I got as far as my knees. Had a great dinner in the Reubens restaurant where Ben plumped for the springbok loin! Hannah has decided to go vegetarian so had the chickpea curry. Gillie had pork and I had lamb. They were all delicious!

Tuesday, 15 July 2014

Day 5..out and about

Having picked up our hire car,  we set off to explore the Cape peninsula. After driving over the bendy but magnificent Chapmans Peak Road,  we arrived in Noodshoek and another result of all of Gillie,'s research,  the food barn for yet another lavish breakfast even though Hannah has just announced that she is going vegetarian and gluten-free... Probably not the best country to do that!

We drove down past Simon Town to see the penguin colony at Boulders Bay who were lovely and Gillie nearly had another Cadgwith moment with tears welling up.

It was then onto Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. Just breathtaking scenery. We took the funicular railway up to the peak and saw Southern Right whales in the distance. We then walked to the Cape of Good Hope,  seeing lizards and butterflies. Not a cloud in the sky or a breath of wind.

Breakfast had been so enjoyable that we stopped back at the Food Barn for supper after watching the mist at Misty Cliffs and a rather brilliant sunset and pack of surfers at Kimmidjie. The barn served a great array of tapas and Ben got to have Argentinian prawns,  hake and mussels to add to his fish list while Hannah got lots of vegetarian food. The churros and chocolate sauce topped off the meal.

Drove back in the dark along the fearsome Chapmans Peak... Gillie shivering with fear all the way. Love Cape Town but we leave it tomorrow!

Day 4...walking up a mountain

What a day! Beautiful weather once again and we met our guide,  Warren, who was taking us up Table Mountain. Warren is a 'character' and as we sped up the foothills in his girlfriend beaten up Vauxhall Nova, which he had stolen for the day,  he told us his whole life story.

We parked above Camps Bay and began our ascent. It was chilly in the shade but we soon warmed up. The climb was amazing with Warren showing us the medicinal and edible plants en route. The views are spectacular as there wasn't a cloud in the sky.

Ben and Hannah kept up a cracking pace up front with Warren while Gillie and I took it more leisurely. We stopped at intervals for snacks and to take in the views. Ben was especially impressed by drinking stream water despite it being brown with tanin - but you try to get him to eat a tomato! Racing the summit was great if a little anti climatic to suddenly be with hundreds of tourists who had taken the cable car up. The cable car down was awesome if slightly scary.

After brushing up back at Lawhill we went for a stroll round the bay to see the sun set.

Fantastic day rounded off with pasta and oxtail stew in Toto Velo.

Sunday, 13 July 2014

Day 3 - big, red bus...

Up early for another run in Drizzle and low cloud. Couldn't even see the mountain.
After more breakfast and coffee we caught the open - top red bus tour of Cape Town. Always enjoy these trips as you get to see lots of places in a short space of time.
Got off to visit the South Africa museum with a great display of sea creatures! Walked through the Company Gardens and the herds of squirrels who live there while Ben and Hannah demolished another packet of biltong.
We then visited the Cape Town Jewish museum which was excellent and showed the role the Jewish population played during the apartheid years.
The bus then drove up to the cable car station for Table Mountain and you could appreciate how steep it is. Well,  Gillie could as she went ever so quiet... Thinking of our walk up there tomorrow!
We then walked back to town along the sea front,  getting splashed by the waves. Saw whales again in the bay. Ate a massive dinner of roast chicken before getting an early night in preparation for next day's hike.

Day 2 continued

A couple more photos from day 2